Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from
IVIicrosoft Corporation
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A complete map of the Black Sea and surrounding country will be found affixed to the inside of the back cover of this book.
Around The Black Sea
ASIA MINOR, ARMENIA, CAUCASUS, CIRCASSIA
DAGHESTAN,
ROUMANIA
BY WILLIAM ELEROY CURTIS
AUTHOR OF "TURKESTAN: THE HEART OF ASIA"
"BETWEEN THE ANDES AND THE OCEAN"
"TODAY IN SYRIA AND PALESTINE"
"MODERN INDIA," ETC., ETC.
HODDER & STOUGHTON
NEW YORK
GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY
Co'pyright, 1911, By George H. Doran Company
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THIS VOLUME IS COMPOSED OF NEWSPAPER LETTERS
AND IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED TO THE
MEMORY OF THE LATE
CORNELIUS McAULIFF,
MANAGING EDITOR OP THE CHICAGO RECORD-HEBALD
CONTENTS
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I Cruising in the Black Sea 3
II The Ancient City of Trebizond.... 29
III Railway Concessions in Turkey.... 60
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V The City of Tiflis 105
VI Mount Ararat and the Oldest Town in the
World 129
VII The Armenians and Their Persecutions.. 154
VIII The Massacres of 1909 168
IX The Results of American Missions... 185
X The Caspian Oil Fields 214
XI Daghestan and its Ancient Peoples... 228
XII The Circassians and the Cossacks... 252
XIII The Crimea 265
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XV Florence Nightingale and Her Work.. 813
XVI Odessa, the Capital of Southern Russia. 325
XVII The Kingdom of Roumania 348
XVIII The New Regime in Turkey..... 379
XIX The Emancipation of Turkish Women.. 411
XX Robert College and Other American Schools 430
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Map of the Black Sea.... Opposite title page
A Turk of Trebizond 10
Coffee peddler on our steamer 10
Group of Lazis, Armenia, ready for a dance.. 53
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A Georgian beauty 88
A Georgian prince and his sons 88
Head dress of a Georgian lady 94
The native costume of Georgia 94
Section of the road in Darial Pass.... 95
A Georgian gentleman and wife 100
A Georgian peasant 100
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Floating flour mill, Tiflis 110
A Georgian cavalier... ♦....114
Palace of the viceroy, Tiflis 120
Patriarch of the Georgian Church, Tiflis... 126
A Georgian prince 126
Mount Ararat 131
Nakhikheban, founded by Noah on the slope of Ararat,
the oldest town in the world.... 142
Entrance to the monastery of Etchmiadzin, Armenia. 155
Kibitkas of the nomadic tribes 160
Persian quarter, Baku ^. 213
A mosque of Baku 213
Temple of the fire worshippers near Baku.. • 216
Domes of the Persian section of Baku... 224
Prince Schamyl; " The Lion of Daghestan," and his sons 228
City Hall, of Vladicavcas 249
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A Circassian gentleman 257
Type of Circassian beauty 257
Gateway to Aloupka Palace, Crimea.... 266
Villa of the Czar at livadia, Crimea.... 284
Villa at Livadia in which Alexander IH. died.. 290
Grafskaya Pristan, Monumental Landing, Sevastopol. 294
Memorial Church, Sevastopol..... 294
The village of Balaklava 304
Chamber of Commerce, Odessa 328
Municipal Opera House, Odessa.... 332 View of the Bosphorus; ancient castle of Mohammed the Great in foreground 392
Robert College, '.dhithe Bosphorus.... 432
CHAPTER
^ I ^HERE are several lines of steamers on the Black Sea, -■- sailing under the Turkish, Greek, Russian, German, French, Austrian, and Italian flags. The steamers of the North German Lloyd Company, which sail from Genoa and Naples, through the Dardanelles and the Bosphorus, are best, but they visit only the ports on the northern coast. The Austrian Lloyd steamers, which come from Trieste, are second best, and we were fortunate in obtaining cabins on the Euterpe, which is old-fashioned, but comfortable. The captain is an Italian of Trieste, who speaks English well, as do two of the under officers; the steward is thoughtful and attentive and the cook is beyond criticism.