to accompany her husband, a captain in the Rifles, all through the campaign. Poor thing, she little knows what is before her! The Rifles have, however, just arrived here from Gallipoli, so that for the present at least she will be under a roof again.... We are encamped upon the Adriatic side, about a mile and a half from Scutari, upon some high grass-land commanding the most beautiful views you can conceive: on one side Stamboul and the Sea of Marmora, and in our rear the Princes Island, with Mount Olympus covered with snow in the distance; in our front is the high road to Broussa, with a long straggling burial-ground on either side filled with lofty cypress trees. Along the road have been passing constantly hordes of irregular cavalry, hurrying from the depths of Asia to the banks of the Danube — the wildest and most picturesque set of devils you can conceive. Their music consists of two tom-toms about the size of a battledore, which those who play them accompany with the most hideous yelling. As troops \they are] the most useless and lawless set of fellows conceivable, fit for nothing but plunder.... I do not think we shall move up the country before the end of the month; only half the artillery is arrived, no cavalry, and the commissariat almost entirely unprovided with means of transport. Our division, commanded by the Duke of Cambridge/^ consists of the Guards under General Bentinck,^^ and the Highland Brigade (viz. 42nd, 79th, and 93rd) under Sir Colin Campbell ^* — imagine the noble sight we shall be when we are all put together I The 93rd are just arrived from Gallipoli, the 79th will follow shortly. I have been very well and, what is more, very happy; have plenty to do, and am busy all day long. Mrs. Scott has just arrived to keep her husband company; Lady Erroll is also arrived, the Rifles having left Gallipoli — she says she cannot make up her mind to live in a tent again.... God bless you, my dear mother. — With love to all, your affectionate son,
Fredk. Stephenson.
To his Broiher-in-Law, Melvil Wilson
Camp Scutari, May 10, 1854.
My dear Melvil, — I ought to have written to you long ago to tell you all about my proceedings and also to inquire about your own, but you know my weakness in letter-writing, and so I trust to your indulgence. I had a most delightful stay at Malta, and made the most of my time; it was too delightful to find a home in that retired spot, and you may judge of the delight I felt in meeting Ella out there under such circumstances. Our Brigade was the last to leave the island although the first to arrive, and after having been deuced nearly run upon a rock off Cape Matapan, have arrived in safety at Scutari, where the bulk of our force now is. About 2500 are in barracks and about 9000 encamped on a lovely piece of ground outside the town; some artillery are in barracks about five miles up the Bosphorus, and there are about 4000 still left at Gallipoli to throw up works. None of the cavalry is yet arrived and not half of the artillery, and I do not think we shall move for the next month. When we proceed to business I have not the slightest idea; you will probably know better than I do. I think, after all, there is a very good chance of our having no fighting — what do you think? I wish, if you had a spare moment, you would write me a few lines telling me what you think of the state of things. What are Prussia and Austria going to do? Nothing whatever appears to be going on along the Danube; both Russians and Turks are completely inactive.... It seems to me unnatural to be making this agreeable tour without you and the girls; but however much you might like to travel here, it is not a country for ladies to make tours in. I have seen little or nothing of Stamboul or the country about, but directly I have I shall write a full account to Paris of everything worth mentioning. The Duke of Cambridge is just arrived; he commands one division, consisting of the Brigade of Guards and the Highland Brigade
1 854] CHEERFUL SPIRIT OF THE TROOPS 75