My dear Helen, — It is very disappointing not being able to return home, but in reply to my application to do so I had such an appeal made to me to remain on in command that it was quite impossible for me not to do so — I really had no option. I don't think that there were sufficient grounds for asking me to remain; this command must fall vacant sooner or later, and my successor might just as well be appointed now. If they delay doing so till Egypt and the Soudan are settled down they will have to wait a long time. Cairo is becoming quite deserted; everyone who can is gone or going for the summer, and I shall very soon feel like an owl in the desert.... I have been at the opening of one or two mummies lately, which was very interesting. Rameses 11. (Sesostris), the Pharaoh at the time of Moses' birth, was one of those recently opened; he is now lying under a glass case wonderfully preserved, the features perfectly distinct, and of a type quite different from anything now to be seen in Egypt or the Soudan — the nose very remarkable, not unlike that of
the Duke of Wellington, a rather receding chin, and prominent cheek bones (though that must be expected from the age of the mummy, as well as that of the King himself). You may imagine what an interest it is to see the actual features of so historical a character. His father, Sete i., whose sarcophagus is in Sir John Soane's Museum, in Lincoln's Inn Fields, is, if anything, in better preservation; he also lies well preserved under a glass case. A third mummy, being in a woman's coffin of about the same date, was supposed to be that of Nefert, the daughter of Pharaoh, who found Moses, but when the coffin was opened and the mummy unrolled, it turned out to be a man, Rameses iii., a rather improper proceeding you will say, and about which perhaps the less said the better; he also lies under a glass case, but without any expression of shame at having been discovered where he was. I have got some excellent photographs of these kings, which I will send home by an early opportunity, as well as some dried flowers found lying upon the mummies; they are the flowers of a species of willow or of the lotus. The excavation of the Sphinx is going on apace, but the result is very unsatisfactory; they have got down to the animal's paws, between which is an altar, but the body of the animal now disclosed shows no sign of sculpture; the legs certainly are there, but the breast of the animal is entirely undelineated. My first impression was that of disappointment, accompanied by the wish that the sands might cover up the excavations again.... Yours affectionately, Fredk. Stephenson.
To his Sister
Cairo, August i, 1886.
My DEAR MiNNY, —... We are now looking forward to the approaching visit of the Duke of Edinburgh,^* with the Mediterranean squadron, which will consist of about eight ironclads and two frigates, which will make a good show. The French are doing all they can
1886] HOSPITABLE GREEK MERCHANT 347
to excite, through their newspapers, an unfriendly display of feeling against H.R.H., but I don't imagine that they will succeed to any great extent; their jealousy of such a display of English influence excites their animosity, and is just what might be expected from them. I am going down to Ramleh on Tuesday to stay with a wealthy Greek for about ten days, who has always been very friendly to the English, and to whom, in return for some valuable assistance he rendered us in 1882, the Queen has awarded the K.C.M.G., so that, to his great delight, he is now styled Sir Constantine.
Affairs are going on satisfactorily, both upon the Upper Nile and at Suakin, and judging from appearances the hostility of the Soudanese seems to be taking a favourable turn.... I hope you will get William to show you the photographs I lately sent him... the mummy, Sete i., with those of several other kings, had been removed hundreds of years ago from their original resting-places to preserve them from destruction at the time of some invasion of Egypt, and had been reburied together in one large pit, which was discovered a very few years ago.
To his Niece, Susan Hamilton Stephenson
Cairo, September 27, 1886.