Part 13

My dear Minnie, — I sent Ella a few hurried lines yesterday as I was on the point of disembarking. As we entered the harbour the band on board the Khedive's yacht struck up " God save the Queen," and an Egyptian frigate dipped her colours, an honour I thought intended for the Queen, it being her birthday; but later I ascertained that it was intended for the new General in Command. Shortly after. General Earle commanding in Alexandria came on board, and then followed the Egyptian Governor of the town; shortly after a kind of state barge came alongside, in which I started for the shore, the men-of-war in the harbour, English and foreign, firing the customary salutes, and the Khedive's band playing as before. On landing there were two guards of honour drawn up, an English and an Egyptian one, and the military heads of departments waiting to be introduced. The Governor's carriage then drove off with him and myself, with a cavalry escort, through the town, where the people turned out in pretty good numbers and saluted as we passed. We drove to General Earle's house, and before going to luncheon I went out by train to Ramleh, went over the hospital and barracks, and had a good look at the surrounding country, the scene of some of the early fighting last year. After luncheon the Governor called for me and drove me in his carriage to the station. We had a long journey to Cairo; we took six hours to do about 100 miles. I did not grudge the time, for I amused myself in looking at the country and its cultivation. I need scarcely tell you that the Delta is as level as possible; the crops were well forward, and here and there barley had been already cut: — altogether the Delta was pretty much what I had expected to find it. On arrival there was another guard of honour with head officials. All this ceremony, which would not take place to the same extent in many other commands, is of consequence here, where the people attach so much importance to ceremony, and would think very little of the General in command if a little fuss were not made about him. I got to my house about 8.30 — a small palace beautifully fitted up and furnished throughout with every possible luxury and comfort, including (which I was not quite sure of) linen and plate in abundance. The Khedive has been most liberal in providing this house, and no expense has been spared. It is a square house, surrounded by a small but well-filled garden, with the best stables I think I have ever seen. On the ground floor is a reception room which I have not yet used, out of which is a smaller sort of drawing-room, and out of that again, all en suite, an extremely good-sized dining-room. The rooms are all connected outside by a large, spacious verandah, glazed, which runs along that part of the house. Then there are on the same floor the two A.D.C.'s rooms, and a sitting-room for them, the staircase very handsomely carpeted; there is also a bathroom. Upstairs the arrangements are better still; my own suite of rooms consists of a charming bedroom and dressing-room on one side, with a good marble bath; on the other side a good-sized room, a large boudoir, in which I am now writing; leading out of it are two drawing-rooms, and a bed- and dressingroom for the military secretary, and there are two other spare bedrooms. In short, the whole arrangement is, I assure you, quite princely. For all this I have no expense to meet beyond paying, at moderate wages, two Egyptian male housemaids, and the gentleman, also a native, who cuts the grass by small handfuls as if he were cutting hair; the washing of the house linen of course I have to pay for. The A.D.C. who manages the household will bring, I think, my monthly bills within reasonable compass, and I think I shall make the two ends meet quite comfortably; but I shall have to entertain a good deal, especially in the winter.