My dear William, — The last fortnight here has been a most interesting time to all of us. We are allowed to go all over the Crimea, and are profiting by the permission to our hearts' content, and you can probably hardly form an idea of the interest there is in all we see. There is much to gratify even idle curiosity, but the information and instruction to be picked up are incalculable. I would not have missed seeing what I have witnessed in the last fourteen days for anything. I have been all over the Russian positions, beginning with the north side, which is covered by forts and guarded by ravines and heights which render it impregnable. There are, however, not more than 5000 troops there now, although there are plenty of old camps. The ravines which run from these heights into the valley are most curious, and intersect them in such a manner as to render any attempt to force them perfectly useless, even if you were provided with a perfect map. The ground literally defends itself. The Mackenzie Heights are equally impregnable, and even if forced could not be held, for there is a position in the rear defended by ravines very intricate and almost impassable, which would make it almost impossible for you to hold your ground. There are about 4000 men left here; there was a large camp between this and the north side, now abandoned. The next camp is on the Belbek, formerly a very large one, from which two passes were defended, the Kordes and the valley of the Belbek, and the next camp is on the Katscha to defend that pass, and then you come to Batchki-Serai, where there are very few troops. The town itself lies hid in a narrow valley, and contains nothing remarkable. The old palace has been used as a hospital and is consequently not visible; the streets resemble those of the Eastern towns, being narrow, dirty, and badly paved, the shops low and uninteresting, with their Tartar owners
[fragment illegible in the scan of the first edition]
sitting cross-legged, selling trash and trumpery of every description. But the point of interest is at the end of the valley, about three miles off, where is a colony of Caryote Jews, who have been established there, according to tradition, 2200 years. They inhabit a little town of their own, perched on a rock overlooking the valley. I had a long talk with the Rabbi in German, who told me all about his sect, and showed us the synagogue. These people are a remnant of some of the lost tribes, and you will probably find an account of them in Seymour's book, or in Clarke's travels. Yesterday all leave was stopped in consequence of a review of the allied army for Liiders. He saw the French army in the morning, who mustered about 33,000 infantry. He lunched with Sir William Codrington and reviewed the English in the afternoon. We mustered 28,700 rank and file, or 32,600, including officers, sergeants, etc., besides 86 guns with 2900 artillery of all ranks, the horses being 1900. It was a grand sight and made me feel very proud, though two strong regiments were absent.
And now all this force is shortly to be broken up. It really seems a pity not to make use of it, for I think another campaign with such troops as we are now, together with the attack we should have made on the Baltic, would have told fearfully on the Russians. But I have no doubt it is all for the best. I suspect we shall leave here in about a fortnight. The Sardinians are off already, and so are some of the French. — Ever your affectionate brother,
Fredk. Stephenson.
1 Fitzroy James Henry Somerset, 1788-185 5, youngest son of the 5th Duke of Beaufort. Baron Raglan 1852. Commanded the British army in the Crimea, and died there in 1855, during the siege of Sebastopol.
2 His sisters, Mrs. Henry Giffard and Isabella Stephenson, who were staying in Malta at that time.
^Sir George Brown, G.C.B., 1790-1865. Was at the siege of Copenhagen 1807; served in the Peninsula, at Vemeira, the passage of the Douro, and the capture of Oporto; severely wounded at Talavera; engaged hand to hand one of Massena's staff ofi&cers at Busaco, and was at the storming of Badajoz. He took part in various actions during the retreat of the French from Spain and Portugal; was in America 18 14, at Bladensburg and Washington, and then saw no further service till sent to the Crimea in command of the Light Divsion in 1854. His horse was shot under him at the Alma, and he was severely wounded at Inkerman, but recovered in time to lead the successful attack on the Redan, and commanded the expedition to Kertch and Yenikale; commanded the forces in Ireland from i860 to the year of his death.