still more so if it had been accompanied with my recall in consequence of it; however, I hope by the time this reaches you that it will be well on its way out, for... I wrote so strongly to Moncrieff, begging him to get me recalled to my regiment, that I cannot conceive it possible that I should be here after the middle, or at latest the end of June.... Moncrieff did a very good-natured act for me in asking the Duke to allow me to remain on here at my present post, not knowing that Canton was taken... as this was asked as a favour there will, I hope, be no difficulty in getting this favour set aside.... Since writing the above we have received news from Shanghai, where all the plenipotentiaries are, which does not appear to be quite so satisfactory as people expected. The Emperor had sent a reply to Mr. Reid, the American Plenipotentiary, in which he referred him back to Canton, where he said he had sent his Commissioner to treat. Lord Elgin had not, I believe, received his reply, but it was daily expected, and would no doubt be the same. If the Emperor persists in his obstinate folly, a large force will be required to coerce him, and where is it to come from? It is quite certain we cannot look either to India or England for succour; but the general impression seems to be that the moment Lord Elgin shows determination the Emperor will give in. We have had nothing yet to complain of in the way of weather, and the heat has not commenced; thermometer now is 74° to 76°. I am very fortunate in the room I live in, for I do not think the sun will ever shine upon it. That is not a recommendation that would please you in England, but here it is a very important one.... — Ever your affectionate brother,
Fredk. Sthepenson.
To his Niece, Susan Hamilton Stephenson
Canton, April 7.
Many thanks, my dear Susie, for your two very agreeable letters, which contained a great deal of news
1858] TAILS AND SMELLS 209
that interested and amused me. What an agreeable visit you seem to have had from our Grerman friends last autumn! I hear there is a chance of your repaying the visit. Is that so? I am sure you will enjoy it if you do, and turn it, I have no doubt, to good account in every way. I cannot give you so good an account of our theatricals at Canton as you have given me of yours, but still I witnessed a brilliant performance by some private soldiers the other night which amused me very much, and was very creditably performed. The play was Douglas, a first-rate tragedy — " My name is Norval," etc. — performed in a Chinese temple upon a large altar from which a joss had been recently deposed — a joss, my dear, is a god — after which the altar was further desecrated by the laughable farce of Two in the Morning. Tell Helen, with my love, that I am looking out for a tail for her. I have had occasion to cut oif a great many by way of punishment, but they were all so dirty looking that I did not think any of them nice enough to send home. There are some loves every now and then, so clean and well plaited and reaching quite down to the heels that I am often sorely tempted to redeem my promise by cutting one of these off. The Tartars have the finest in general, but Yeh had a wretched specimen, hardly enough to keep the flies off. But the most comical sights are the little children. You often see little fat urchins that can just walk decorated with a tail which, being artificial, generally sticks bolt upright. And now, my dear, so much for my Essay on Tails. The next remarkable feature in this populous city, and one which strikes the nose of every observer with wonder and admiration, is the pleasing variety of smells which greet you at every corner. It does not do to try and walk fast in this city, for as your breath has been previously taken away by this very striking feature in the atmosphere, you might find yourself in difficulties. If I do not previously succumb from its effects I will dilate more fully upon this when we meet.... I had some bird's nest soup for dinner yesterday. We saw IS
them preparing the stuff in the town — it looks something hke isinglass — and bought enough for dinner. It was poor, insipid stuff, very gelatinous and with a sickly taste of very weak sugar and water.... Give my kindest love to your mother and sisters, not forgetting Grant.''... — Yours affectionately, Fredk. Stephenson.
To Lady Stephenson
Canton, May 4, 1858.