Canton, March 13, 1859. —... Ever since our little affair with the Braves on the 8th January we have been marching or moving by water into the interior to show ourselves to John Chinaman, and show him that we will go wherever we like, and disabuse him of the lies purposely spread by the Mandarins to the effect that we were everything that was infamous, and in the habit of committing every horror under the sun, and that we dare not leave Canton or enter their towns and villages. This last is the fifth expedition we have made, and it has done an immense deal of good. Wherever we have gone we have been well received by the people, and with the most abject servility, and touching inquiries after our health by the Mandarins, who at heart hate us cordially and would insult us in any way they could if they dared, though I must give them the credit of being in many instances most polished in their manners, and really very gentlemanly; though at the same time, with a great deal of refinement in their ideas and bearing, they are a lying, treacherous set. The trip we have just made was up a river called the West River, which flows into the sea near Macao. We went up it for a distance of about 200 miles, farther a great deal than it had ever before been explored by Europeans, except by missionaries. It was a very fine stream, about a mile broad, where we entered it, and 700 or 800 yards at the highest point we reached, with a channel all the way for vessels the size of a frigate. The scenery was generally very beautiful, and, taking into consideration the absence of picturesque towns and ruined castles, was superior to either the Rhine or the Danube. There was one gorge in the hills which the river ran through
1 859] UP THE WEST RIVER 239
which was as fine as anything I have ever seen of the kind for river scenery. It would be a grand highroad for trade if there were any towns of importance, but there are none upon it, and it is therefore quite useless in that respect. Our force consisted of 9 gunboats, which towed 2 Chinese vessels, each carrying about 800 soldiers, with a few field guns. The life on board these Chinese boats was rather amusing, and we all enjoyed the novelty of the thing very much. As we advanced up the river it was quite melancholy to see the destruction done by the rebels, increasing as we advanced; they had left their marks everywhere. Each town had been more or less burnt, and one entirely destroyed — villages and joss-houses in many instances a heap of ruins; they seemed to be inveterate against the latter and never to spare them, pretending religion to be at the bottom of their rebellion, when, in fact, they are nothing more than a formidable band of ruffians and outcasts of every description who have discovered the impotency of the ruling powers and brave them with impunity. You cannot have a better proof of the decrepitude of this Empire, which I cannot but think is on the eve of its dissolution, though how this vast country will be eventually disposed of it is not easy to see, but that it will shortly break up is, I think, inevitable. The system of estrangement from other countries which has been pursued by China is assuredly contrary to nature, and I think China's day is come. Lord Elgin unexpectedly left China for England on the 3rd, and on the 19th Sir M. Seymour leaves in the Calcutta for the same charming destination; he is about to be relieved as Admiral on this station, and goes to meet the new Admiral at Singapore. Mr. Bruce has not yet arrived, but we expect him about the end of the month. He will, shortly after his arrival, I should think, go up to the north to exchange ratifications of the Treaty.... I was very sorry to hear by last mail that you had had a bad fall.... I cannot have you tumbling about the house when I
am not there to pick you up.... — Ever your affectionate son, Fredk. Stephenson.
To his Brother
Canton, April 11, 1859.
My dear William, —... I should have been glad to get away before the summer, as I have just had another touch of fever which, though trifling, still shows that it is in me. This was followed by a nasty boil.... I am out to-day for the first time....